So I pulled the actuator off of my turbo and I'm able to turn the VGT vane lever freely with ease. If the turbo is bad and needs replaced, do replacement turbos come with new actuators or would I have to buy both individually? From what I've heard, people don't recommend running an old actuator with a new turbo. What options do I have at that point? Can the turbo be cleaned and reassembled, or would I need to buy a whole new turbo? What are you guy's thought's on used or rebuilt OEM turbos? If the VGT lever is stuck and won't budge, I would assume that the VGT veins being stuck is my issue. Where do you guys recommended buying genuine parts from for the best price? Can I buy the turbo actuator individually? I have some buddies that have access to Calterm that can probably calibrate a new actuator for me If I remove the actuator from the turbo, how will I know if the actuator is bad? Should I be able to spin the actuator gear by hand? Next step is I want to diagnose what's going wrong and make this repair as economically as possible. Scan tool tells me that I have P003A, P00AF, and U010C, which from what I've read online is either a bad actuator or stuck VGT veins in the turbo.įirst question, is it still okay for me to drive the truck around without causing any further harm? My 5 year warranty expired so the RAM dealer will most likely tell me to F-off.
Truck definitely felt sluggish today, and I just confirmed that it won't make more than 11 psi of boost at full throttle. Now the CEL stays off when I start the truck, but comes on as soon as the truck warms up and I start rolling into the throttle more. The truck never felt sluggish back then and the CEL would always auto-clear itself after ~50 miles so I didn't bother investigating at the time. Over the past year or so I've noticed an intermittent check engine light (CEL). The truck is bone stock and always has been.